Polished Peruvian cooking at Selva Grill

The kitchen shows a high level of accomplishment with the diversity of Peruvian cooking re-interpreted with polish and sophistication.

Thus, ceviche, appearing ubiquitously in Peru and increasingly around here, emerges as a theme for inspired variations such as the Chino Beef Ceviche ($13), which adds an Asian touch with soy sauce and seaweed salad, or the Pulpo al Olivo ($17), which bathes slices of octopus in a black olive purée.

Ceviche de Ostras ($15) first strikes the eye -- three white espresso cups arrive on a plate, each containing oysters floating in leche de tigre, or tiger's milk, the marinade on which ceviche builds. The dish is given heat with the addition of rocoto, a Peruvian pepper. It's a marvelous progression: first, the sweet, sleek oyster, followed by the cool tartness of the tiger's milk, concluded with a warm pop from the rocoto.

A Lobster and Crab Bisque ($9) appeared as a special for the evening and showed that Selva can hold its own with classic preparations, the rich, velvety bisque given greater depth with lumps of crab.

Anticuchos are classic Peruvian street fare, chunks of marinated beef heart threaded on a skewer and grilled. Selva's version ($14) sticks close to the original, substituting small pieces of beef. It's a simple and satisfying small plate, one accompanied by a miniature cake made of plantain.

Selva's selection of meat dishes shows the rich traditions of Peruvian cuisine. Lomo Saltado ($24), for example, showcases Asian influences, a wok stir fry of pork, while Pork Osso Bucco ($28) incorporates Italian styles.

Among the fish dishes, the Whole Fried Snapper ($36) makes a dramatic entrance, coiled as if to strike. Its flavor equals its appearance, lightly crisp on the outside but flaky and moist within, tasting as if it had just leapt from the sea. This is how fish should be prepared.

Inca Cod ($28) takes a more rustic approach. Pieces of cod and chorizo are buried in a tomato-flavored rice mixture, then wrapped in a plantain leaf and baked. The result is a hearty mélange of strong tastes, with a final bite of spiciness.

We finished the evening off with two pleasing desserts. The Pot of Mousse ($9) is an elegant affair that mixes dark and white chocolates and almost floats out of the bowl. Pastel de Tres Leches ($9) expertly reproduced the classic cake dish that uses three different types of milk. It was sweet but not excessively so and wonderfully moist.

Service throughout the evening was professional without being the least bit stuffy. Selva Grill has a good selection of wines stretching across both origins and price ranges.

Read Jack Winner's past columns at heraldtribune.com/diningout.